By Robert "Bob" Bussey
The second full day was from Naples to Ochopee in the middle of the Florida Everglades. On this tour we experienced two very different ecosystems in the Everglades and in the Keys. My Garmin watch indicated a riding distance of 54.77 miles, but I did not start it at the beginning of the ride. So you can add a mile or two. Our itinerary said it would be around 60 miles.
We stayed at the Midway campground. No showers, No drinkable water. You are not even supposed to use the water to brush your teeth. An alligator pond was nearby. A majority of the cycling took place on the old Alligator Alley highway (Hwy 41). It is well maintained with ample room for cyclists, except when bridges narrow the cycling lane.
During this day we got to see nature at work. A fairly large alligator was dead on the side of the road. Apparently roadkill. The vultures, there had to be 50 or 60 of them were tearing away at the flesh. You could walk up pretty close to the feasting, and the vultures would simply continue to gorge themselves. It was probably the most food they had seen at one time in a while.
Along this section you also get to see the “worlds smallest post office.” At least that is how it is advertised. And it was small. Just one small room. The postman sits behind an open door. No room to go inside. I think he mainly sells postcards or refrigerator magnets.
We generally had a favorable tail wind, and the temperatures were good for touring. No rain, thank goodness. I only used up about 75% of the e-bike battery in the 60 miles. It was telling me that I had a good 80 miles of range with it in the flat, tailwind, situation at a reasonable pace of around 14 mph, a good touring pace.
The third full day was from Ochopee to Florida City, or thereabouts.
According to the itinerary, this was to be a 50-mile day. We continued on Alligator Alley, also called the Tamiami highway or Hwy 41. Traffic was reduced. The new Alligator Alley is to the north of the old one which we were on. Got to stop at Skunk Headquarters, the Florida answer to Big Foot. Also passed by Alligator Alcatraz and tried to cycle in to see the prison. They asked me if I wanted to join
the inmates. (Just joking). A state police officer politely but firmly told us that we could not go onto the prison grounds, so we turned around and headed back to the highway
A stop along the way on this section was at the Oasis Visitor Center where they have a steep sided pond that holds some granddaddy alligators. I was glad they were down there and I was safely 20 feet above them looking down. They sure are lazy.
The end of this day was at the Miami Everglades Campground, our last stay in the Everglades. After this day we would be heading on more of a southerly direction and into the Florida Keys. Oh, this campground did have showers and drinkable water. The dirt rolled off.
On the trip we each had to take turns cooking dinner and having breakfast ready in the morning. This time it was Kale and white bean soup along with cocktails, or at least beer.
Amazingly, I am surviving sleeping on the ground. I had doubts since it had been some 50 years since I had done so. Air mattress is doing a good job. Temperatures have been good for sleeping.
The fourth full day was from Florida City to Key Largo. Supposed to be 37 miles, but side trips made it 44. One side trip was to Robert’s Fruit Stand. Great milkshakes are made with many different fruits.
Now heading out of the Everglades and into the Florida Keys. Just one main road … US Hwy 1. Good bike lane or many bike trails. Thank God for bike lanes and bike paths.
Key Largo is to be a rest day so that we are ready for the big push to Pine Island which will be a 70-mile or more day. Luckily, since we are now heading in more of a southerly direction the winds that are out of the North or Northeast are giving us a good tail wind. My bike battery is getting an even easier time and is doing extremely well. I will say that it is important to make sure that any place you stay has adequate electricity since the bike battery needs to be recharged every night. But that is not all. Every rider on this trip had electronics that needed to be recharged. I happened to bring along a charging port that had many ports so quite a few riders were recharging their cell phone, bike computers, etc. on my device.
We had our dinner at the Sundowner restaurant in Key Largo and watched the sun set. Absolutely stunning with no trees to block your view.
On the rest day in Key Largo many of us went snorkeling at the coral reef at the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, Others went kayaking around the Mangroves to see the manatees. Both were well worth the time and refreshing. The rest day was important since the next day was the long-haul day of the trip from Key Largo to Big Pine Island. A short 70-mile ride.
Fifth full day of riding. Key Largo to Big Pine Island. 70 miles. The islands that make up the Keys gently turn towards the west, southwest, so winds out of the east or northeast create a good cycling tailwind. We had exactly that. Good tailwind all day! Totally in the Keys. Hoping from Key to Key on connecting bridges.
Had a tailwind that let us cruise between 16 and 20 mph. I had a max speed of 31 mph. No problems with my e-bike. One person in our group had a nail go through his tube and even the bike rim. He was able to pull the nail, patch the tire and put a boot on the inside of the rim so he was able to ride the rest of the miles to camp.
Traveling along US Hwy 1 south is hectic but doable. They have a good bike path or bike lane system. And autos are supposed to give way to cyclists. At least in theory. Most do.
There are plenty of stopping points in the towns that dot the Keys. We had lunch at SS Shipwreck Sports Bar in Marathon. Great food, especially the fries, and great service. Weather was perfect. High of mid-seventies in the Keys. Low of low seventies. Not sure it is always this way, but it sure is nice. Humidity also seems low with the constant sea wind.
It is good to ride with a group of people who are not constantly looking to go fast. Time to stop and enjoy the sights. Time to look left and right at the scenery instead of just looking at the road 10 feet in front of you. Time to chit chat with one another as the miles go by, or chit chat over a burger and beer at lunch. I’m so happy to be part of the slow movement once again. I’ve come up with a new name for a touring group: S3Touring – Slow, Steady and Satisfying.
It was my turn to cook at the campsite in Big Pine Island, I dabbled with the idea of making a crawfish etouffee but could only find Chinese crawfish so I dumped that idea and made a well-liked pasta with a meat sauce that contained a lot of extras. Piled it on. We also whipped up a Mediterranean salad and of course some French garlic bread along with 3 kinds of wine: a Pinot Noir, a Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Chianti. All were moderately priced. I think I was the only one to drink the Chianti. What is it with that?
Sixth full day of riding. From Big Pine Island to Key West. Supposed to be 39 miles according to the itinerary. I added several more miles since I got to Key West before we could check into the campsite. Instead I cycled more into the heart of Key West. If you have been to Key West before you know that there are plenty of chickens running around and plenty of chicks with the hens. Saw plenty of them. Since 2004, the city has made it illegal to harm, kill, or even harass them, and additional ordinances ban feeding and regulate humane relocation.
I ended up at Mac’s Place, a Tequila Sports and Tiki Bar. Texted the rest of the group and 4 or 5 other riders joined me. Excellent Burgers and fries. I did not try the tequila but did have a beer. Good beer.
Our final campsite overlooked a bay. Good scenery. Good campsite with full amenities.
We then had several days to explore Key West. Of course, I had to take an obligatory picture at the southernmost point in the United States. Not sure why I did not smile. I think the sun was in my eyes. Of course, there was the Hemingway house and the six toed cats, And then there was Sloppy Joes, the original Margaritaville bar, the Truman Little White House, Key West Lighthouse, and Fort Zachary Taylor. I also found a little French bakery and café that had been open since 1984 (a relative new kid on the block compared to the other sites).
Our last meal together as a group was at the Hogfish Bar. The next day we hopped on a catamaran ferry that took us over water back to Ft. Myers, Florida where my car was waiting for me.
If you kept count, you would note that we had 6 full days of riding and 4 days to explore for a total of 10 days for this multi-day bicycle touring trip. Highly recommended. We were lucky to have great weather and great tailwinds. I was amazed at how people from all over the United States could create a functioning group so quickly. I think part of it was that we all agreed at the very beginning not to discuss religion, politics, or sex. We skirted those topics on occasion, but with grace and style.
This was a bicycle tour sponsored by the Adventure Cycling Association. If you would like to learn more about them and join one of their adventures, you can find them at adventurecycling.org.
I guess I need to comment a bit more on the use of an e-bike for multi-day tours. It is definitely doable and makes it so much easier, no matter your age or ability. You just have to be careful about having access to electricity to recharge each night. Not a hard task since our society is so tied to electricity and it can be found most anywhere.
Beginnings
It was time for an adventure.
Moments stretching into multiple moments.
Something more than a simple vacation leisure.
Something that would cause both a heart and mind commotion.
It was time to refresh the view.
Refresh the view of self and things beyond your grasp.
Something old but also new.
Something that would take multiple maps.
An event of epic proportions.
Something unexpected of many a lady and many a gent.
Each day, each moment, a new worldly devotion.
Standing tall, not being worldly bent.
An adventure with many unknowns.
Human and inhuman.
Lots of interesting bones.
Those extras becoming close crewmen.
Setting sail through images, desires, doubts, determination.
Grinding inch by inch down those roads.
Enthralled by every rolling second of living fascination.
As each mile rolled by caring less and less about earthly loads.
At the end wishing for home but also wishing for more.
A conundrum, a dilemma of sorts.
How to have both without losing the sought after score.
Maybe it’s a matter of learning to ride both the black and white horse.
In my world being the fastest is seen as best.
I’m happy to have left that world behind.
Finding once again that the slow bike movement is a must.
That touring keeps you from going blind, gets you out of many binds, gets you out of the everyday grind.
The wind in your hair.
The sun on your back.
The up hill prayer.
The downhill “you don’t know speed, Jack.”
Today, tomorrow, next month, next year.
A new day dawns.
Losing fear.
The turn of your pedals and you are gone.
Bob Bussey (March 30, 2026)
I normally write about poets and then those articles are published in this digital magazine, 318Central. But sometimes you just need to take a break. I’ve been bicycle touring for a long time. (From the early 1970’s to be exact.) This was a chance to get away from my usual routine, see new sights and meet new people. If you are interested in cycling touring, you can contact me at Rlbussey450@icloud.com. I’d love to introduce you to that world.
