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COASTAL MISSISSIPPI: SUN, SEAFOOD, AND SOUTHERN CHARM

By Jeanni Ritchie

I remember the first time I drove to Biloxi on my own. It was 1989 and a friend and I wanted to go to the beach. We left Baton Rouge around 7 PM, drove a couple of hours, walked on the sand and dipped our toes in the water, and drove back to BR. Teenagers do crazy things sometimes!

But I’m beginning to think that wasn’t have as crazy as living mere minutes from Biloxi for almost a decade and never appreciating all it had to offer. It took moving away and revisiting as a tourist to see what a magical place Biloxi really is. 

Starting with the iconic Biloxi Lighthouse!

Biloxi Lighthouse: One of the most photographed sites on the Gulf Coast, the tour of the historic 65-foot tall structure involves climbing 57 steps of a spiral staircase inside the lighthouse, and climbing an eight-rung ladder topped by a 19-by-23-inch trap door into the light room. It is worth the climb!

Biloxi Shrimping Tour: Less than a mile away is the Biloxi Small Craft Harbor where I embarked on a shrimp boat tour. Watching the seagulls trail the boat, taking pictures of dolphins, catching a glimpse of a sting ray caught in the net, and holding a crab were highlights of the 70-minute cruise. 

Sharkheads: While I hadn’t wanted to see any live shark heads while I was in the water, I loved the souvenir shop on land! I bought an anklet and some stickers for my scrapbook, and a got a personalized tie-dye visor. 

Paradise Pier: I continued my love of Ferris Wheels as well as being a child at Paradise Pier Park, next to the Margaritaville Resort. Open to the public, I rode the kiddie roller coaster and carousel. I made several trips in the Ferris Wheel, overlooking the entire Gulf Coast. 

Margaritaville Arcade: Open to the public, the giant arcade has hundreds of games, a flight simulator, bowling alley, ropes course, pizza joint, and more. Hours of indoor fun, it’s perfect for a rainy day! 

Big Play Entertainment Center: Arcades, mini golf, bumper cars, laser tag, amusement park rides, bowling alley, and more. Fun for the whole family. 

Finishline Performance Karting: Entertainment complex featuring an arcade, go-kart track, and zip line, plus a restaurant.

Beau Rivage: Lodging, shopping, gaming, dining, live shows, pools, beachfront lounging, arcade, and sports simulators all in one place. The Beau Rivage is a destination unto itself. My room, with a steam shower and separate soaking tub, had a beautiful bed and comfy bed. The Broadway production of Grease followed by an after party with the cast in the MGM resort’s Eight75 Lounge was a highlight. Dining at both Salt & Ivy’s and Coraline’s was upscale and delicious. They grind their own coffee at The Roasted Bean. Relaxing in the pool and in lounge chairs overlooking the Gulf was tranquilizing. In this Stay-Play-Eat environment, there’s much more playing than just the slots! Check them out at Christmastime when the Beau turns into a winter wonderland!

Biloxi Beach is part of the world’s largest man-made beach, stretching 26 miles along the Mississippi Gulf Coast from Biloxi to Henderson Point in Pass Christian. The Gulf Coast view stretches even farther east, through the quaint town of Ocean Springs and into Pascagoula, Mississippi. On the west side it ends in Bay St. Louis, home of my first couple of nights in Coastal Mississippi. 

Driftwood Motel: The revitalized Driftwood Motel offers a journey back in time to the captivating retro charm of Bay St. Louis during the ‘60s and ‘70s. A pool and outdoor motor lodge could serve as the setting for a flashback tv episode while the room interiors are modernized and charming. Electric bicycles are available for rent and a 24/7 kitchen with snacks is available to guests. 

The Blind Tiger: Right on the beach, the popular BSL restaurant was the perfect spot for Taco Tuesday and discounted shrimp tacos. An outdoor courtyard with cornhole and other games was available before or after your meal. 

Mockingbird Cafe and The Shops of Century Hall: Start off your morning with breakfast at one of the outdoor tables overlooking downtown Bay St. Louis before going shopping next door in the quaint shops. 

Good Earth Records: Browse through 33s and 45s of your favorite hits of yesteryear, letting the music take you back to a time when life was as simple as the vibes of this beach town. 

Ms Mary’s Old Town Sno-Balls: This is the late-night (not too late!) spot, where individuals, couples, and groups of friends gather for a sweet treat and talk among the covered outdoor tables while close enough to embrace the salty air of the ocean. Half pink lemonade/ half orange has been my 2025 go-to sno-ball order! 

200 North: It was if Forrest Gump and Bubba had personally delivered the shrimp for my dinner as soon as I ordered it, the fresh (and quite large) seafood platter hitting the spot after a day of sightseeing. Incredible meal. 

Rags to Riches: If you are still craving excitement after the sleepy coastal town turns in for the night, head over to Rags and Riches for live music and cocktails or, in my case, mocktails. I sang along and visited with others, too keyed up to head back to my hotel room one night. 

Ocean Springs: Voted top 10 Best Coastal Small Town by USA Today in 2022, it is home of Walter Anderson Museum of Art, Mississippi Sandhill Crane National Park, Miner’s Doll & Toy Store, The Lady May’s outdoor courtyard, Woody’s Roadside Diner, The Candy Cottage & Gourmet, CRAVE Food Hall, Coastal Magpie, and the best pizza joint in America, Lost Pizza. 

Pascagoula: Pascagoula River Audubon Center, LaPointe Krebs Museum, and the beautiful Pascagoula Beach Park. 

We’d visited this park once when my children were younger. We’d actually been asked to participate in a City of Pascagoula tourism video and spent the day barbecuing, swinging, sliding…A family of six enjoying the beach and the park for several hours. That was in August 2005. A week later, all that was left were our memories. Hurricane Katrina had decimated the park. To see it built back stronger than ever is a testament to the resilience of the people of Coastal Mississippi. 

I had one more stop on my way back home, Shaggy’s! With six locations along the Gulf Coast, I chose the westernmost point on my way back to Louisiana: Shaggy’s Pass Harbor. 

Shaggy’s: The quintessential seafood restaurant, I arrived to the Pass Harbor location at the actual docks in a rainstorm. It led to the ambiance and I imagined the Coast was mourning my departure! With live music, friendly servers, and shrimp the size of my mashed potato balls, I had a perfect send-off. By the time I left, the sun had peeked out and the outdoor tables were opening back up. 

The Mississippi Gulf Coast is the kind of place that makes you feel right at home, whether it’s your first visit or you’re returning to your former hometown. With its laid-back vibe, friendly locals, delicious food, and unique attractions, there’s always something fun to discover. Whether you’re grabbing a bite by the water, exploring quirky shops, or just enjoying a sunset on the beach, it’s easy to see why people keep coming back. It’s not just a vacation spot—it’s a place with heart, charm, and a whole lot of personality. 

Jeanni Ritchie is a contributing journalist from Central Louisiana. She can be reached at jeanniritchie54@gmail.com. When she’s not on a beach somewhere, that is! 

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